This time, our column takes us to another part of Sicily, the western part, where we will also stay for the next episode. The main feature of this side of the large island that we are gradually describing and traveling through is undoubtedly Mount Etna, which we will discuss in detail next week. This time, however, we will talk about a village on the slopes of the great Sicilian volcano, Castiglione di Sicilia, a small jewel of peace, beauty, and, as always, good food.
Venturing into the small villages surrounding the foot of Mount Etna is a journey through colors that are different from those we are used to seeing in the rest of Sicily. Here, dark, chalky shades of gray and black dominate. At first glance, these colors might convey a sense of melancholy or gloom. This is not the case. The elegance and austere beauty of these places is unique, as evidenced by the village of Castiglione di Sicilia, along with many others: Randazzo, Milo, Linguaglossa, and more.
Castiglione is a small village with just over 2,500 inhabitants. In 1911, there were more than 14,000, but by 2001, there were only about 3,700. This demographic collapse is now typical of Sicily—and beyond—which is emptying small villages in favor of cities, inexorably raising the average age. It’s a shame, but Castiglione remains perched on its small hill, from which it dominates the surrounding area, almost as if it wants to show off its beauty to anyone in the area.
At 1,800 feet above sea level, Castiglione overlooks the Alcantara river valley and is mainly medieval in construction. Immersing yourself in its narrow streets means being carried away by its beauty, walking without a specific destination and finding yourself in small alleys that open up to views of greenery and vineyards. Castiglione is thus a small, quiet island of peace, where you feel magically sheltered from all the hustle and bustle of modern life. The clean air—slightly cool due to the altitude—contributes to making your stay even more enjoyable.
As “official” confirmation of its relevance, in 1994 the small village was declared a “village of considerable public importance” by Regional Decree, as well as being part of the association of “The Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.” The village has a beauty all its own, with its continuous ups and downs, where the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate and the Basilica of the Madonna della Catena stand out. Climbing to the top of the village, you reach the beautiful Castle of Lauria, which dominates the village and the Alcantara valley and which welcomes visitors.
Castiglione di Sicilia is one of the most beautiful villages in Sicily, a must-see if you are in the Etna area. It is a place where you can completely unwind, where modernity seems never to have arrived. When we try to buy bread on a normal Thursday, we are told that it is a “day of rest.” It is not clear why, but that’s okay. In the hope that places like this will continue to exist, we enjoy the idyllic landscape, the kindness of its inhabitants, and the world-famous cuisine and wines of Etna. The menus feature ragù, chestnuts, and Etna porcini mushrooms. In an instant, Sicily has gone from a land of sea to a place of mountains.
