Various representations scattered throughout the Sicilian capital depict this mythical figure
According to some estimates, the historic center of Palermo is the largest in Europe, while others place it in third place. But beyond the biased rankings, it has the characteristic of being intricate and extended, unlike, for example, that of Bologna where “not even a child gets lost,” as Lucio Dalla sang. Fortunately, since maps have been available on cell phones, this possibility has been reduced to a minimum: unless you find yourself with a dead smartphone battery, today neither children nor adults get lost anymore. The reason we are talking about the historic center of the Sicilian capital today is to tell you about its guardian deity, a sort of (secular) guardian angel scattered throughout the city in various depictions.
The streets and layout of the center are very unusual. You go from well-kept streets to others in a state of disrepair, from the doorways of luxurious buildings to public housing, from luxury bars and restaurants to street food. Here too, gentrification and the world of B&Bs have taken hold. In this strange and fascinating mix, there is one constant character, depicted in the form of statues and paintings, who appears in the streets and buildings of the city. There are about twenty representations of this character, which visitors may encounter as they wander towards their destinations. We are talking about the Genius of Palermo, a word that derives from the ancient Greek ghenos: genia.
The Genius is first and foremost a mystery. A secular patron saint who stands alongside Saint Rosalia, venerated by the Catholic Church and spiritual soul of the city, patron saint of the city who rose to this role only after the Genius came into his own. There are many different representations of the Genius, and little has been clarified about the true meanings of his personification. He is always depicted in almost the same way, with a few stylistic differences. He is a man with an elderly, bearded face and the body of a child. The figure has a crown on his head and embraces a snake, which wraps itself around his leg and feeds from his chest.
In his representation at Palazzo Pretorio, the Genius is at the center of a basin, which has an inscription in Latin: “Panormus conca aurea suos devorat alienos nutrit.” This phrase has a profound meaning for the city, at least according to its most widespread and accredited interpretation: “Palermo Conca D’oro devours its own and feeds foreigners” It is a motto that describes the location of the city and its fertile plain—the Conca d’Oro—to welcome others, which contrasts with the lack of attention paid to its own inhabitants. In other words, the meaning is that the people of Palermo are much more magnanimous towards others than towards themselves and each other.
There is no credible explanation about who the genius was, but according to a myth reported by ethnologist Giuseppe Pitrè, he was a real person, a shipwreck survivor who decided to live and die in Palermo.
Legend has it that, sometimes, at night, he comes to life.
The first representation of the Genius dates back to 1483 and can be found in an alley in the Vucciria district, but it became more widespread between 1700 and 1800. It can also be found at the port to welcome those arriving by sea, at the Palazzo delle Aquile – the seat of city power– in the splendid Villa Giulia and in many other places. It appears in paintings and frescoes, as in the case of the Royal Palace. The mysterious Genius continues to watch over the city, reminding us of the welcoming spirit that distinguishes it.