Crystal waters, Liberty villas, and autumn peace between Monte Pellegrino and Capo Gallo
For the people of Palermo, Mondello is better than the Caribbean. Whether this is true or not, we can’t say, but it’s certainly not far off. Especially on a mid-autumn day, with no rain and at most a few clouds slightly blocking the sun’s rays.
With these elements—the most important being that summer is already far behind us–the Gulf of Mondello is, without exaggeration, breathtakingly beautiful: a natural inlet with crystal clear water and sand just a stone’s throw from Palermo, about 7 miles away, depending on the area of the city. Mondello is nestled between Monte Pellegrino and the Capo Gallo nature reserve, which guard and protect its waters, which are always calm.
The word Mondello, is thought to derive from Arabic, in which it means marsh. The gulf was indeed marshy and there was a port there, but it was later reclaimed and became a fashionable resort between the 19th and 20th centuries. The Palermo elite built their summer residences there in the characteristic ‘Liberty’ style, transforming what was until then a fishing village into a place that beame not only popular but also elitist.
Outside the summer season, the beach that from May to September is crowded with people enjoying its attractions is almost completely accessible. But, regardless of the season, it is a magnificent place to take long walks on the sand, soak up some sun, enjoy a delicious lunch of local fish or an aperitif in the bars that line the beach. The main square is a hub of street food and trendy restaurants. An excellent compromise between the two is the Trattoria da Piero, an exceptional seafood restaurant.
Mondello is a district of Palermo which can be reached by crossing the “Favorita,” a park that functions as the natural lung of the city, which, incidentally, is larger than New York’s Central Park. This fishing village and chic resort is first and foremost a place where approximately 12,000 people live. There are schools, supermarkets, greengrocers, and other shops, a calm and peaceful place where many choose to live in order to escape, at least in part, the hustle and bustle of the city.
The beach is beautiful, and sometimes we Palermitans forget this because of the summer crowds. I walk from one end to the other, savoring the feeling of peace conveyed by the small waves breaking on the sand.
I walk away and, while visiting the village and shooting some pictures, I come across a chestnut vendor. I film him without being seen, but he notices. He is preparing the “caliaturi”, the special embers typical of Palermo, which are used to roast chestnuts. At first, he pretends not to notice. Then he asks, “Who are you making this video for?” I reply that it’s a video to tell tourists about Palermo. “Tourists already know that!” he says.
Well, for those who don’t know, this is a way to find out. I wave goodbye, he returns the greeting, and I leave.